Trek in Himalayas: Mayali Pass

Mayali Pass has an mysterious aura sorrounding it. Situated at ~5200 mts above sea level it is one of two high altitude passes that connects Gangotri to Kedarnath. The other being Audens Col at around ~5400 mts. The mysterious aura is due to the fact that, not many people attempt to go there and of the few groups that attempt, success is not guaranteed to all. Very fickle mountain weather, over 6 days of no contact with any civilization and the high altitude makes it a barrier for amatuer hikers or first timers. We attempted to do this (after calculating that we have sufficient experience to go there from our previous treks to ~5000 mts in Himalayas) after mid September when the weather gods are reasonably happy. For this trek always be on watch for weather updates around this area as in the previous year couple of trekking groups had to rescued after getting caught is severe snow-storm for 2-3 days. This time we went through Indiahikes. Indiahikes would arrange our trek gears (sleeping bags, tents), guides, porters, other equipments etc at Ghuttu where Ghuttu in Garwhal Himalayas would be the starting point. This time it was group of 6 (Raghuram, Karthik, Hariharan, Kautilya, Vijaykumar and myself).

16/9/2011 (Bangalore-Delhi-Haridwar)

Landed at Delhi by 7.45 pm after taking the 5 pm flight from Bangalore. After dinner we decided to proceed to Nizamuddin to catch the 11.55 pm train to Haridwar. All was well till 11.20 pm when we decided to check which platform the train arrives. OMG ! Ticket said that the train leaves from New Delhi station which is 10 kms/30 mins from Nizamuddin. All of us ran (with our 10 kg rucksacks) to Nizamuddin entrance, caught a taxi (single taxi for all 6 of us!) and arrived at New Delhi station at 11.55 pm. Trains in India usually leave 5-10 mins late, however it was not the case that day and we promptly missed our train. Took 2 autos to Kashmir Gate in Delhi and

payed over the nose for 6 seats in a bus to Haridwar amidst sudden heavy downpour. Decided against punishing our guy s who had booked the train tickets but didn't read the ticket correctly !

17/9/2011 (Haridwar-Rishikesh-Ghuttu)

A bumpy journey with hardly any sleep brought us to Haridwar by 7 am. Haridwar to Ghuttu is ~175 kms and takes 6-7 hrs over the hilly route. Immediately we caught a bus to Chamba and then another one from Chamba to Ghansali.

Chamba to Ghansali comes under the perilious journeys with winding narrow bad roads, steep landslide prone slopes but great views of the Tehri dam. Arrived at Chamba by 1 pm to have a good lunch. Made contact with our guide and he had arranged for a Jeep to Ghuttu. Another 35 kms of perilious ride and we were in Ghuttu by 4 pm. Decided to stay at the GMVN guest house which had been booked by Indiahikes. Met our guide Jaipal Singh who is 60 yrs old. Ghuttu will be the last place to have power and better to charge your camera batteries etc

18/9/2011 (Trek: Ghuttu/1525 mts - Reeh/2100 mts)

Ghuttu is a small village on the banks of river Bhilangana. We were to have a guide, a cook, 4 porters for the next 8 days of our trek.

Ghuttu to Reeh is 10 kms and there is jeep track all the way till Reeh. But don't ever take it easy. It is a tough climb from Ghuttu all the way till Reeh. We follow river Bhilangana keeping it to our right. The terrain will be mostly through forest but the tough climb is not easy on your body as it is yet to get warmed-up. Started Ghuttu at 10 am and reached Reeh by 2.30 pm. We won't open our tents yet as Reeh has a GMVN guest house and a nice place for our cook to cook food. Even though there is almost a jeep track, vehicles are yet to reach Reeh as some part of jeep track have vanished due to landslides.

19/9/2011 (Trek: Reeh/2100 mts - Gangi/2600 mts)

Reeh to Gangi is another 10 kms. A wandering Saadu (monk) gave us a piece of advice on how tough the terrain ahead is where people have even died. Left Reeh by 9am and immediately after Reeh we have to cross a cold stream.

If it rains crossing this can be very tricky with waist level icy-cold water flowing with great force. After this is a steep climb through the meadows for 2-3 hrs and we come to a place where you'll find some abandoned houses. Another 1-2 hrs of trek through the lush green meadows brings you to Gangi. Gangi a bigger village than Reeh is the last point of civilization in this trek. Arrived at Gangi by 2 pm and it started raining. It took another hour for the caretaker of GMVN guest house to arrive. We were entertained by rainbows after the rain. Evening we decided to stroll around the Gangi village. It is famous for a type of baby potatoes and our cook added some to our list of rations. We decided to distribute chocolates to kids and Karthik got almost mobbed by some aggressive kids of Gangi. You'll need a trekking pole for this trek and Gangi would be a nice place to get some make-shift wooden poles in case you are not carrying one.

20/9/2011 (Trek:Gangi/2600 mts - Karsoli/2900 mts)

A long trek day as even though the height gain is 300 mts the distance to be covered is 17 kms. Left Gangi by 9 am and soon there is steep descent after Gangi. It doesn't feel good. All the height lost by climbing down has to be gained soon after. There are couple of landslide zones and it needs to be crossed carefully.

Kalyani on the mid-way is the first place where you will see the glimpse of snowline and infact you'll see south face of Mt. Thalaysagar which is a very beautiful peak. We had seen its north face during our trek to Kedartal. Had packed lunch of rotis after an hours trek from Kalyani. After lunch, stopped for 30 mins on the way where our guide and porters found sheperds who were preparing some Barbeque stuff. We got to have hot tea made from that fire and proceeded. Reached Karsoli by 4 pm and it started raining. There was no place to camp amidst boulders and stones but our porter Mahajan found a dilapidated shelter further ahead. For the first time we experience the cold as we are out in the open without the coziness of bed, blanket and guest house. Our porters had started the fire and night we cleaned up one room and slept in that open room inside sleeping bags. Just a warning, heard this area has a good population of bears and sleeping in an open room is not at all a good idea !

21/9/2011 (Trek:Karsoli/2900 mts - Chowki/3500 mts)

Karsoli to Chowki is 10 kms and takes 6 hrs. Treeline vanishes from Karsoli onwards and we get more of boulders, loose stones and thin plants.

Watch out for a huge unaccessible waterfall to the right soon after Karsoli. Started by 9 am and reached a place called Tambakund by 12.30 pm where we decided to have our packed lu

nch. Between Karsoli and Tambakund, there is a steep, dangerous landslide zone and take help of you extremely skilled porters or guide to get through. You can camp at Tambakund, but we decided to proceed to Chowki after lunch which would be another 2 hrs. We climb a little and descend steeply to the right towards Bhilangana.

It is time to cross the gushing-torrential Bhilangana over a scary make-shift bridge. It started raining again and to get to Chowki there is some climb involved. Reached Chowki by 3.30 pm and it took some effort to put up the tents (the first time in the trek) amidst rains and hails. An early dinner and then to sleep but no hurry on the next day as it was a rest day to attend to our sore muscles, cramps, fatigue and also last but not the least to acclimitize to the altitude. Night would have touched 0 deg outside and we even felt the coldness inside our tent, courtesy a wet and leaky tent.

22/9/2011 (Rest/Acclimitization day at Chowki)

It is good to stop for a day at Chowi. The next camping place being Masartal at 4500 mts but involves a steep climb of 1000 mts from Chowki.

Your body needs to get acclimatized and Chowki is a great place to do that. It is also one of the finest meadows sorrounded by snow clad peaks to camp in Gharwal Himalayas. The panorama is a treat to your eyes - with Khatling glacier (where the Bhilangana originates) and Mt. Thalaysagar always in the horizon. Icy water is available from a stream nearby. If you are still in good spirits and physical shape a visit to the snout of Khatling glacier which is ~4 kms one-way can also be done. Heard from our guide that 10 years back the glacier was right near the Chowki. Effect of global warming! We decided to stay put in Chowki to prepare for the next two days of rigorous climbs. The general weather pattern till now was it would get cloudy by 2-3 pm, and would start raining by 4 pm. It would rain till 8 pm and then the sky would clear up then onwards. Had dinner outside amidst rain and finger numbing coldness.

23/9/2011 (Trek:Chowki/3500 mts -MasarTal/4500 mts)

Morning heard that the only kerosine stove we were carrying was damaged on the way between Karsoli and Chowki and it would be a miracle if it works in the higher altitudes. Till Chowki we were using mostly wood to cook but wood will be no longer be available from Chowki onwards. So we got mentally prepared to suvive on raw Maggi, energy bars for next 3 days. You don't feel like doing anything till sunrays touches your feet which happened here at 8.30 am. Left Chowki by 9 am for the 1000 mts climb ahead. Initially we climb gradually but once the meadows part gets over it is a very steep climb leaving behind beautiful grasslands of Chowki.

You'll need a break for every 2 mins and you'll also begin to feel the effect of thin air. There are some slippery inclined surfaces you have to cross and it is not good to have shoes which don't have good grip on wet surfaces as Hari found out. He slipped and fell while crossing one such and had a knee injury. It was worrisome as going either back or ahead is 3-4 days from civilization. Just before Masartal is a steep landslide zone where you have to pull yourself up over loose stones and gravel over a 45 deg incline and a slip here can be fatal. Again take help of you support staff. Reached Masartal by 1.30 pm and all the fatigue and strain will be compensated by the panorama around. You'll see much more glaciers and peaks above Khatling and sunlight penetrating between clouds will make it look heavenly. In fact you can even see Audens Col and the path down, Jogin and Jaloni peaks if sky is clear. Our cook and porters had managed to fix the stove. Had an early dinner at 6 pm and retired for the day in anticipation for a very tough next day. Night temperature around was around -10 deg and definitely below freezing inside the tent ! It is rocky surfaces all around and we actually camp 15 mins before Masartal (lake).

24/9/2011 (Trek:Masartal/4500 mts - MasarTop/4800 mts - MayaliPass/5200 mts - Vasukital/4200 mts)

The D-day today- a really strenous as well as an exiting one as we plan to cross Mayali pass and go to the other side. It all depends on the weather and it looked clear.

Woke up in the morning to see thin layer of ice over the tent ! I could hardly eat few spoons of Maggi for breakfast as the altitude makes you loose appetite. Left by 8.30 am and our guide performed a brief puja at Masartal. Ahead of Masartal is a 60 deg steep climb of ~200 mts over large boulders to Masartop. After learning over previous experiences we were considered lucky as there was no melting snow over this large boulders this time which could make this climb a dangerous one. After 1.5-2 hrs we were on Masartop. Believe me, climbing like this at 4800 mts height with 8-10 kg rucksack on your back is not easy. Once at Masartop we get to see other side which was hidden till now and we see a melted glacier. Mt. Kedardome of which we would get a great glimpse beyond was covered by thick clouds. Another 30 mins over level ground we arrive at a place where we have to cross nearly a km strech of boulders and steep landslide zone. Be very careful over this zone. After negotiating this stretch we arrive and at the walkable part of the glacier, and for the next hour or so we walk on it. This glacier doesn't have too many crevices. You'll see snow and snow clad peaks all around. Clouds and sun play hide and seek game and it creates a breath-taking panorama. Once the glacier ends we have 200-300 mts climb over snow to reach Mayali pass. An ice-axe is a must to cut steps and keep a rope in hand just in case there is deep snow.

Some of us had few slips and falls and finally reached Mayali pass by 12.30 pm. Once at Mayali pass you get to see the Vasukital side (Kedarnath is still not visible) and the pics just don't do any justice to what you see. We also according to our guide became the first group to cross Mayali pass in 2011 as previous group had to go back due to excessive snow or landslides. But no time to regain your breath and admire the moment here as our guide Jaipal Singh was really in a hurry to get to Vasukital and we spent hardy 5 mins on the pass. There was not much snow patches on the other side and we halted for lunch (energy bars+dry fruits) soon after. We get to see Vasukital in the horizon, our camping site for the day. Once the snow patch ends, it is a steep descent over large and loose boulders. Very stressing on your ankles and also watch out for some loose boulders over where you place your feet. Nobody including the porters are spared of a slip and a fall here. It started snowing and this hell over the boulders continued for another 2 hrs till we reach a stream. Our campsite will be 15 mins from here and we camp a km before Vasukital in a beautiful meadow. Vasukital is considered sacred and locals avoid camping at Vasukital. After 2 days of lack of proper food and tiredness we got half-cooked dal kichdi which I could hardly eat couple of spoons. It rained heaving in the evening.

25/9/2011 (Trek:VasukiTal/4200 mts - Kedarnath/3600 mts)

Morning sunrays had reached here early by 7.30 am to make us warm.

Kedarnath is 9 kms and we started by 9 am. The first stop was Vasukital. At 4200 mts Vasukital is a stunning and a serene lake. After a puja it is time to climb again ! To get to Kedarnath valley we need to climb 200-300 mts and then climb down. This climb is not easy as you are still above 4200 mts but on the better side we have a well laid out path. Lack of decent food for the last 2-3 days and exhaustion had screwed up my digestive system and this climb didn't make it better. Took 1.5-2 hrs for this climb and after some descent we get to see Kedarnath town. The Kedarnath town with the glacier and

Kedarnath massif behind looks amazing.

Kedarnath is still 800-900 mts below and takes 2-3 hrs to reach. Reached Kedarnath by 2.30 pm and found 3 decent rooms in a lodge for ourselves and porters. The caretaker of lodge showed us a decent restaurant and we gorged ourselves. It was also time to call our dear ones to convey that we were safe as we get mobile connectivity for the first time in 6 days.

26/9/2011 (Stay at Kedarnath)

It was our reserve day and we stayed at Kedarnath. Paid multiple visits to Kedarnath temple. The looming Mt. Kedarnath massif behind gives this temple a very majestic look.

Nothing much to do today except eating, taking rest and playing cards. Our guide and porters left by evening after some delay. Wit

h Kedarnath at ~3600 mts it is still bitter cold at night.

27/9/2011 (Trek:Kedarnath/3600 mts - Gaurikund/1800 mts, Gaurikund-Rudraprayag by road)

Paid another visit to the temple, this time to inner santum to touch the Linga. Left Kedarnath by 10 am for the 14 kms downhill pilgrim path to Gaurikund. We walk beside river Mandakini all the way till Gaurikund. Within minutes it started raining cat and dogs. Ponies are regular in this route and so is their dung on the path. The heavy rain converted it to fine paste over the pilgrim path. We had to endure it as it rained all the way till we reached Gaurkund. Had Maggi in a hotel there and then got a jeep to Guptkashi. Got another shared jeep from Guptkashi and reached Rudraprayag by 7 pm. Booked 2 rooms at the few lodges available and one room (not mine :) ) turned out to be buggy (bed bugs).

28/9/2011 (Rudraprayag-Rishikesh-Haridwar)

Visited the prayag (confluence) of Mandakini and Alakananda at Rudraprayag. We found out a bus that the conductor said leaves by 10, but it was 11.30 when it left. To make matters worse it was a slow bus. A puncture added to delay of a landslide that blocked traffic for more than an hour, we reached Rishikesh by 7.30 pm and Haridwar by 8.30. This was the third time through my treks that I was visiting Haridwar and knew where to eat and stay. You should not miss eating at Hoshiarpuri near Har-ki-pauri where I have tasted some of the best North-Indian delicacies. Our group was split now with only me & Karhik at Haridwar and proceeding to Delhi. Raghu, Hari, vijay stayed at Rishikesh for one more day while Kauti went to visit someone at Roorkee

29/9/2011 (Haridwar-Delhi-Bangalore)

An early train at 6.20 am from Haridwar brought us to Delhi by 12 pm. Decided to head straight to Airport to beat the Delhi heat and then onwards to Bangalore by the evening flight.

Pics are here

As said by everyone this trek definitely needs a prior ~5000 mts experience in Himalayas. On top of that a good fitness (like running 2-3 kms/cycling ~12 kms a day) is a must. But if you have successfully crossed Mayali pass you have every reason to feel proud of, as it is one of the tougher treks in Indian Himalayas.